Deep Roku

Rokusection

Powerboard failure. Rev A HD1000 - dead.

Autopsy

Pleasure...


Powerboard on left - note discoloration on cover.


Bulging caps with ejecta. Dead powerboard.

Caveat

Out of eight screws this coarser one mounts under the front middle.


The other seven are a fine threaded machine screw.

AC becomes DC interface

Fashioned cover for old AC input from galvanized air duct using tin snips and wire cutters.


Attached DC input to new cover.

POWER!

The Morex 80W Power Supply Kit. External AC to DC.


Old powerboard above new Morex 80W DC board...


...placed near originals' expiry locus.


New board mounted to perfboard...


...which is attached to the chassis using original taps.

The Cooler

12V 40 mm fan. Wired to +12V and a GND on PS.


Mounting holes for fan coincide perfectly with the original chassis cooling holes.


Note redundant drilling out of middle hole.


Intake vent on right.


Intake cover and filter.

More cool

Bottom of intake filter - minimal clearance.


Metallic duct tape covers original vertical vent on PS side...


...and covers floor vents near exhaust.

Powerboard Power Switch

Drilled through UL logo. UL status...pending.


Installed DC switch.


Connected switch to GND and PON to control PS. Switch open turns off power.

Wiring

Power receiver on mainboard.


Corresponding outputs on new PS crimped and connected. Unused cabling cropped.

Problem

Top of ATX plug extends above HD1000 form.


Solution "A": notch out plug to allow wire to run below crown ends.


Wires routed comfortably.

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Solution "B": remount power supply.

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Screw that.

It's working....

Green is good. Fan whirring away.


I thought I'd never see this again...



Or These.

Summary

What amazes me is the durability of this unit other than the original power supply. When drilling these large holes I spun out the HD1000 a least three times whacking it against tools, dish racks and the cat.


The case is a little kinked; the front scratched and scuffed. I didn't want to mess with removing the mainboard for this procedure, I didn't want to deal with the interface connectors and ribbons. I shook out and shop vac'd most of the metal shards from drilling.



Exhaust temperature about 18F warmer than ambient.